Days 8-10: Rain Rain go away and a touchdown pass
I’ve
grouped these days together because as we drove west from seal-town/wine
country we learned that van people (which were are) unlike house people (which
we were) are beholden to the whims of mother nature. It essentially rained for
2.5 days straight and while it was sideways rain, it shared none of the
jubilant charm of the early morning Rarotongin tropical rainstorm. (Maybe it’s
the 30 degree temperature difference). That’s not to say we didn’t find a way
to have fun (we were loaded up from wine country after all) but when its sunny
your van is a home base that allows you to bring the wonders of nature to your
doorstep, and when it pours it’s a tiny damp metal box that your trapped in
pretending your bladder is not about to explode because “there’s no way im
going out there,” and wondering if the Diwali is equipped with life vests. Either way its still new Zealand and were
still deiters so we had fun. After a beautiful ride heading west through the
mountains that run down the center spine of the south island we made our way to
a D.O.C campsite at lake Mahinapua which is just inshore from the super angry
ship eating Tasman sea. We made basil pesto pasta on a picnic table lakeside in
what will likely be the most beautiful kitchen we will ever cook in. I hope the
pics do it justice but in case they don’t it had snowcapped mountains reflected
in the lake in the eveinin sun and big white cranes stalking the shallows for
fish. It was just starting to spritz at this point and there were a group of
what must have been high school kids "smoking doobers" in there dads BMW by the
lake….or technically in the lake (wait for pic) but outside of that strangeness
the night was great. We ran into our original trip friend from Rarotonga the
lovely and German Katja who randomly happened to be coming up with her tour
group to see the lake and then we met our first American couple friends, Joey
and Rachel, no not the ones from friends, but they are actors and will be
playing romeo and Juliet respectively in Memphis in a few months (if your in
town). We shared gin drinks and laughs before the rain delay began in earnest
and we had to retreat to the Diwali.
Day 9
featured the storm in full effect and completely squashed our plans to hike the
franz Josef glacier. It was grey and rainy all day which means that the whole
area is basically shut down (who wants to stare at some stupid old ice anyway?)
Franz Josef glacier has partially collapsed near the bottom and is only
accessible by helicopters which don’t fly in the fog/rain and when we went to
Fox glacier the trail access was closed because of flooding. We got to within
1000 meters of it though, and were assured by a sign that it was just up around the corner. The Fox/Franz area is absolutely stunning with
mountains scraping the sky and glaciers everywhere you turn…..at least
according to the post cards we saw pouring salt on our rainy day wounds. We
were bummed to miss it but found a cool bar with a fireplace to dry our soggy
bones, ate delicious beef and chees sliders from chef Tash and then went for a
nighttime hike to see glowworms (tiny worms that look like Christmas lights on
the trees in the forests) which was actually pretty cool. After that we tucked
back into the Diwali and turned the heater on for the first time to dry
everything out and then got ready to make a run over the super scary Haast pass
heading back over the mountains into the center of the country tomorrow.
Day 10
began with uncertainty about whether we would be able to do the Haast pass. It
is quite treacherous and is closed every night and in “certain weather
conditions” and we we’re warned by our friend from the ferry crossing that some
tourists were killed by a landslide 6 weeks ago and to make sure and ask the
locals if it’s safe to cross. Because our moms read this I will say that we
will absolutely never do anything that could jeopardize our safety in any way and
if we had to wait 10 days for the pass to be safe or had to drive back the way
we came, we would do so without hesitation. We were tentatively hopeful in the
morning because it seemed like the storm had lost much of its anger and that it
was periods of sun with patches of rain rather than vice versa. We had
breakfast at the beautiful lake Matheson (again according to postcards) and set
off for the mountains. I am happy to report that the sun came on stronger as
the morning progressed and we were relieved to find many other travelers making
the journey with us. Before long we were Deiter-ing on down the trail singing
“holiday Road” (a-la national lampoons family vacation). We stopped at several
waterfalls on the way up which were awesome because of the recent rain and had
some final views of the grey and foreboding Tasman sea before descending into a
valley that truly displayed some of the rugged south island beauty that
everyone has been talking about. It was jaw dropping pastureland with mountains
all around (real rather than the post card variety this time) with a series of
deep blue lakes. It was sunny and stunning and we were smiling. From there we
hit todays destination of Wanaka, a funky little town on the way to Queenstown. We had a craft beer and a big ole’ bowl of
potato wedge fries in the center of town before we were treated to a bizarre
parade with fire trucks, ambulances and kids dressed like zombies (for real,
check out the pics) that marked the start of “Wanaka fest” which we arrived
just in time to attend. As we drove to park at the holiday park we hilariously found
ourselves IN the actual parade, but luckily the Diwali is big and pink and weird
(thus fitting in perfectly) so we rolled down the windows and started waiving to
people. Classic Deiters. We made it to the holliday park which has free wifi, 2
hot tubs which we have already tested out, and a poster that alerted us to a
sick lakeside Frisbee golf course about 5 minutes away. Also they have a one
month old baby lamb named “Ralph” who gave me a kiss on the nose (do baby lambs
and baby seals get along?) Everything’s comin up Deiter.
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