Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Beaches, Boats and Dragons - an Indonesian Wrap

Hey all. Here is an update from our time in Indonesia. We're in Singapore now where they have the internet but head to the Philippines tomorrow so we may be off the air for a bit. As always we will check back in just as soon as we can. Hope you all had a great Turkey day and we can't wait to see you all real soon. Love Sean and Tash.  
 
 
 
As I type we are in a frigidly cold hotel room in Semenyak Indonesia under a pile of blankets enjoying what a good family friend calls a “Chris Brown Sunday.” (No, it’s not about domestic violence and bad tattoos) Basically the goal is to lay around all day watching bad movies and eating deliciously unhealthy food and it’s the perfect way for us to recharge after a wild few weeks. So wherever you are, put on your comfiest clothes, throw on a bad movie (anything from Brendan Frasier will do), dig out some turkey day leftovers and come along with us through the power of the interweb on a trip to Indonesia. Frist stop, Gili Trawangan. Gili T is a super laidback little drop of sand and sun off the coast of Bali. To get there we booked transport from Bali on a fast boat called the “Sea Marlin Cruiser.” We know this because the man at the ticket office was very specific on this point. As he sat in his office literally surrounded by posters for a different boat, he stayed firm. “Isn’t it that boat?” Tash asks pointing to the posters. “no, Sea Marh-lin Cruu-zer” producing a crinkled brochure with people rockin out, drinkin beers on the deck of the Sea Marlin Cruiser, the dude even had a backstory about how his friend works on the boat. Oky-Doky-smokey, so naturally transport the next day drops us off in the harbor where we board a completely different boat named the Marina Skarandi!?! Oh South East Asia, thank you for your Hilarious and completely unnecessary lies. You are tremendous. Nautical fallacies aside we arrived on Gili T in the early afternoon were greeted by 15 or 20 horse drawn rickshaws called “Cimodos” as there is no motorized transport on any of the Gili Islands. We passed on the transport, taking pity on the tiny horses because it was super hot, and lugged our bags to our new hostel home a few hundred yards off the beach. The place was great and featured individual bungalow’s with fans and mosquito nets and a pool that would be essential in combatting the midday heat. Gili T, unlike bali, is predominantly Muslim and the periodic call for prayer that rang out as we sipped drinks poolside was a strange but pleasant reminder of how far away from everything we really are. The next few days featured lazy laps down the main drag, stopping at beachfront bars to sip 2 for 1 cocktails and stare at the sea. We rode bikes around the island one day (individual rather than tandem this time) and then saw our first sea turtle when we tool a dip to cool off. Each night brought dinner at the night market (a southeast Asian institution) where a little money gets you a lot of food along with a heaping helpin of local culture. The first night Tash had some fantastic fish that you pick and they grill right in front of you, I went with 3 satay sticks (think mini shishkebab’s) and generously salted and buttered sweet corn on the cob that may end up being the best thing I eat on this whole trip. The most exciting event from Gili T came on a walk home from the market one evening. A group of drunken Bro’s were firing off real deal fireworks from the beach in front of a bar, a security-ish guys saw this and events played out thusly:

Drunken Bro: Wooo fireworks, yeah buddy woooooo

Security: Hey dumbass, you’re reining fire down on all those wooden fishing boats which are ya know….wooden.

Drunken Bro: Sup Brah? (turning away from the water and towards the club to talk with security)

With that a green firework shoots like a laser just over the heads of the assembled beach bar crowd, over the dirt road and into a different bar where a band was playing before…boom. Drunken bro then panics and drops the roman candle firework shooting device and it pops off like three or four more shots. Classic. Outside of this excitement our time in Gili T was filled with days that seem to fly by while also being long and lazy in the way that only beach days can. On the fourth morning we took a longboat across a small straight to Gili Air which is a smaller more laid back version of already small and laid back Gili T. After the horrible travel day ritual of schlepping our bags, (big one on the back, small one on the front) down the main drag, through a field with baby cows, we arrived at our hostel dripping in sweat. Our bungalow was huge and had AC and a fan but confusingly no mosquito nets (maybe the skeeters are too lazy to bite here). It was huge and clean and a bargain at $26 a night. On Gili Air our days were built around leisurely laps around the island (an easy 1.5 hr walk with a few stops), really good snorkeling off the beach with $2.50 snorkel sets, snacking at beach bars and enjoying the ubiquitous 2 for 1 happy hour specials (caiprakosa = vodka over ice with cane sugar, lemon and lime..yum). For lunch we would retreat to the “village” in the center of the island where cheap prices get cheaper and you get traveler street cred from stinky dred locked hippies who think restaurants on the main drag might as well be TGI Fridays. We heard (we heard = tash found after hours of scouring the internet) about a place called Warang Muslim (warang means restaurant) We sat at the only table, a picnic bench with the remnants of the last customers meal strewn about and looked for a waitress. A minute later a head popped out of the kitchen and asked “chicken?” Hmmmm so yeah I guess chicken…. And after saying yes we sat in anxious confusion to see what would come out of the kitchen. Fortunately what came out was a fantastic mix of spicy shredded chicken, peanuts, rice, veggies, and some kind of powder that tasted like bacon ($1.50 apiece).  Unfortunately, and perhaps unsurprisingly, this meal led to our first bout of GI distress which I will label the Indonesian sneeze (too much?). This lasted for 2 days but could have been worse and didn’t really slow us down all that much. The next day we booked an 8 hour snorkel tour for $8.50 apiece where we got close to a bunch of big loggerhead sea turtles and worked on our tans. One other highlight for me was playing a game of FIFA on a PS3 with a Swedish bar owner that we ran into on one of our evening walks. I won with team USA 1:0, but I’m not sure Tash would put this moment in her top ten. While were doing lowlights we had some tremendously bad Italian where tash’s pizza crust had the consistency of a ritz cracker and my pasta sauce was undoubtedly made with maple syrup. These negatives are only notable because 99% of our time on Gili Air was so awesome. This would be a place we would rush back to in the future if it weren’t a million hours away. The island is cheap and the pace was perfectly relaxed, there was enough to do so you didn’t feel bored but plenty of ways to do absolutely nothing. The sun was hot and the drinks were cold and most delicious while watching the sunset perched atop big plush pillows in a raised bamboo beach hut. In short Gili air is exactly the kind of place that we came looking for on this trip. After almost overdosing on lethargic comfort we boarded a 4 day 3 night “cruise” to komodo Island and were reminded that with every yin must come a yang. By this I mean that we were crammed in with 20 other people on a boat that was Gilligan Island-ish enough to make you nervously plan your exit in case of emergency. To call the boat Spartan is an insult to the Spartans. For example I’m almost certain the Spartans had chairs, we did not, just pure hardwood baby…and I’m not sure you can call a closet with a hole cut in the floor that drops into the sea a toilet. Also, by luck of the draw we slept vertically while everyone else slept horizontally so each night was spent contorting ourselves around dirty feet and snoring heads as the boat rocked. Oh, and the boat was powered by at least 30 jackhammers. I never saw them but I am certain that’s the only thing that could produce that level of noise and vibration…but the paper thing gym mats we slept on were surprisingly comfortable…I’m totally kidding they were brutal. (deep breath) Whew….So I say all this stuff to get the negatives out of the way and because this is what raced through my mind as the S.S. Soon2Sink left the harbor. On reflection this may have been a crafty Indonesian tour boat strategy…I.E. lead with your absolute worst impression so that there is nowhere to go but up. Whatever it was it worked because these four days turned into the highlight of our trip thus far. Part of it was the awesome scenery, our route was littered with islands featuring untouched beaches, jungle covered hillsides, jagged cliffs rising from the sea and sporadic fisherman going about their work. Part of it was all the animals…eagles and dolphins and komodo’s Oh my! Some was all the super fun activities like tons of snorkeling, a montain-ish hike with great views, night swimming with tiny iridescent algae that would glow with every movement (when you tread water it was like your feet were dancing in fire), a trip to a waterfall, and of course the Komodo treks. But the thing that made this trip so special was the people we went with (I can’t see the keyboard through my tears) seriously though it was an outstanding group and it wouldn’t have been the same without them. We had 4 British guys on holiday who felt like old friends. Apparently the “special relationship” between America and England includes a deep appreciation of bathroom humor. Seriously I could do an entire blog on poop jokes from the boat…but I’ll spare you cause my mom reads this….Ok maybe just one. Though I can’t name names one of the boys released a “non-indigenous brownfish” after misjudging the tide while the boat was docked and it swam right up next to all of us as we waited to get off and hike. We laughed about it for days.  If you could strap a camera to these boys and bleep out the curse words you’d have a hit show for sure. There were three from the Netherlands where the number one export is apparently awesome English skills followed closely by sick dance moves that were on display once we hit the club back on land. We had a perpetual traveler from England who’s fantastic personality almost overcame his looks…almost, lastly there was the unofficial mayor of our trip, a Canadian who spoke 6 languages, was super friendly, and was able to translate for all the different groups.  All and all a great crew. We had an awesome four days that were capped by 2 treks where we saw a bunch of Komodo's. It was wild because they go through this whole speech about how the dragons just lay in wait, ambush style and that the prey never sees them coming and then you set off on the hike, nervously starring at every bush and trying to stay as close to the ranger (who has a big komodo smackin stick) as you can. The dragons themselves are spooky with coal black eyes and forked snake tongue’s. They seemed lazy and we got real close to them but its always in the back of your mind that it could spring to life and take a chunk out of you. The biggest one we saw was easily 8 or 9 feet from teeth to tail. The rangers made it clear that you would need powerful antibiotics to survive a bite….and then they made it clear that they did not have these antibiotics…who needs em? Way to not overthink things south east Asia. When we docked on the 4th night you had the option of staying on the boat for one last night in the harbor but everyone opted for a real bed, a shower and some A.C. Our hostel was sweet and the shower was one of the best iv’e taken in a while, plus the place had three puppies for me to play with. We went out as a group and saw a ridiculous sunset from a rooftop bar (best of the trip by a mile). Dinner was delicious Italian at a place where the chef added a lot of extra a’s to his words. “Do you like-a de spaah-ghetti?” It was fantastic. The next day brought a flight back to bali and a few days to rest, recharge and think about our time in Indonesia. We met up with the British boys for drinks on the beach one night, but otherwise we took it slow, caught up on walking dead reruns, tried not to go too much further over budget and prepped for our next adventure.
 
Bintang is the best/cheapest beer in indonesia

Tash and I at a low table

I work out

Refrigerate fish?!? Whatchu talkin about Willis?

Same for meat.

The fruit market

Rice Paddies

"Auntie Pusba" from our cooking class

Monkey and baby in monkey forrest

"I'm Not Scared"

Baby monkey in the monkey temple

Is this not a statue of me? Check out the power Brows

What R U lookin at Pig?

The "love shack"

Same
Coat rack in the love shack
Me and tish after conquering a volcano

Sunrise on a volcano

LIZZARDS!


Me with the mosquito net in our first room

The whole boat trip crew snorking
The "toilet" on the boat
A puppy I found - Dogs on bolgs
Finished product from the cooking class
Another monkey from the temple
The BBQ at the sweet rib joint
me getting my hair cut
sattay sticks at the night market
Fish at the market
that's one way to keep the BBQ goin
tish snorklin'
baby turtles

Me before the first haircut of the trip








 Tash at the cooking class

 a soup we made












 



P. Chicchis Kitten corner



Me with a kitten

A fish I caught

Tash's dinner on the BBQ at the night market

King of all cats

Sleepy cat- P. Chicchi's cat corner

"Meow what are you lookin at?" P. Chicci's cat corner


Flowers at the market for the hindu daily offering

 
Ganesh at our hostel

More hindu statues- they were everywhere

Fish I the pond outside of our massage place

Snorkeling off the beach in Gili Air

Now with tish



A horse drawn Rickshaw

A Manhattan at the rib joint

Do you think tash likes the ribs?

The most flattering picture I could find of our friend "fred" from the boat.



Two Dutch dancers

More dutch dance action

Watch the hands Gary

Beautiful Sunset post boat trip

Now with tish

And me

It just kept going

And going







A sting ray we found snorkeling



Me and tish lookin good

random beauty from the boat trip

don't worry this one wasn't real

me and tish

more random beauty

playing "spoons" a super fun and super competitive game. We'll play soon

a dragon on the move

me with a dragon, I'm the one in front

A parrot fish we found snorkling

me and this with a dragon

a big ole' dragon

me and tish again.

two dragons

sleepy dragon

me and the boat crew on top of a mountain

we were pretty far up



then we found nemo

our boat friends

Nocturnal oceanic submersion

that tippy top part is where we slept





the map of our tour

Tish with a cat friend




me and tish at sunset

now with drinks

a big ole' spider. Maybe that's why there were no mosquitos

a bar pool we found

baby turtles

livin the good life

I like ICE CREAM

Island Boats

A sea turtle

Same

Me and tish at dinner



 

Me beating a Swede at his own game



A totally original product

the secret to sleeping on a boat

 

Me in a waterfall on the boat trip

Who doesn't want to hear some good old "rock and Loll?" Maybe they will play my favorite "Jimmy Sundrix" song.
 


Me and 2 of the British boys

Some crouching tiger action on a mountain

Me swimming with a sea turtle
 
now some baby turts
 
getting robbed at the monkey temple
 
 the view from the sunset bar
 
now from a mountain
 
now some Komodo action
 
 same
 
 
same
 
the view from the volcano
 
 
Well that's all for now folks, hope you all had a great Turkey day and we'll see you all real soon. Love Tash and Sean













 











 







 










 






 

 

 



 



 


1 comment:

  1. yo Deiters-

    keep up the madden approved weirdness.

    Merry Christmas

    b

    ReplyDelete